The first time I visited the Azores was in 2023. My fascination with islands meant that when I heard about these lush, volcanic isles where you can go hiking, surfing, Jiu Jitsu AND just a 4.5-hour direct flight from Zurich (thanks, Edelweiss!), it was an easy yes.

I planned to spend two weeks there:

The first week, working remotely and training in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu.
Second week learning to surf and exploring the island.

Dates and logistics

Last two weeks of May. This turned out to be a good time to go, just before the busy season kicks in (June)
Since I was planning on doing most of my hiking and exploring in my second week, I only rented a car for that time. The first week, I stayed in a central location close to restaurants and the BJJ gym. But if you want to see more of the Island, a car is a must.

Where to stay on São Miguel

Out of the Blue

This is the spot to stay on the island. It has a cool hostel vibe with a mixed crowd. You can choose between a private room and a shared room. I went for the private room and had a great view of the garden. The Wi-Fi was excellent, so I had no issues working remotely during my week there.

The big square table in the middle is where it’s at; breakfast is served here in the morning, and it’s the perfect place to chat with other travellers. It’s such a great spot to connect, share stories, and swap travel tips. Highly recommended for solo travellers or couples; you’ll meet lovely people, and the staff are super friendly.

If you don’t end up staying here, I still recommend stopping by for dinner. They share the garden with the restaurant next door (Taberna na Boavista), and offer tapas-style dishes that are both tasty and great value for money. 10/10, no compromises.

Room with a view of the Garden at Out of The Blue

For my second week, I moved to a surf camp. We went surfing every day. The instructors were from this school, and the people were great and attentive. We mostly surfed the north beach, but that’s the great thing about the island: depending on the day, we either went north or south, sheltered or more open.

Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu @ checkmat BJJ

Super nice guys. I trained GI here and brought my own. I don’t know if they have loaners. Drop them a message on Instagram and let them know you’re coming by.

Checkmat BJJ Azores

The location can be hard to find. The Google Maps address is correct. It’s basically a small white door with no signs; if it’s not open, knock on it. No parking, so park nearby and walk there.

Get Active

Natural pools

I swam here, and here — nice little natural pools. Be careful how close you get to the edge near the waves; the water is deep enough and refreshing.

This side of the island is also the best side to watch the sunset.

Beautiful sunset at Piscina

Surfing

Book a surf lesson with these guys, they’re the best on the island. Friendly and experienced.

Ribeira Grande

You’ll spend most of your surf lessons around this beach. Nice beginner waves and more advanced ones depending on he day. Watch out for the man o’ war … they’re out there, and I met one up close. Not. Fun.

Hike — Lagoa do Fogo

I started this from the parking location. Hiked up and back the same way. It’s a really nice hike with great views.

Be careful of the birds here; it’s a nesting ground for a lot of egrets, and they can be aggressive if you come too close to a nest. So be aware, and also make sure you don’t end up sharing your lunch with them.

Views! with an epic sandwich from Intz48 Coffee Roasters

Hike — Faial da Terra Circular Route

I started this hike around 8 am, which isn’t too early. But i didn’t see many people on the way down, its was a really nice hike. The highlights

Random chickens will follow you, waiting for you to feed them (don’t).
A beautiful waterfall where you can take a swim (don’t forget your towel).

It's a peaceful hike, but it can be slippery at times, so if you have a hiking stick, bring it.

I recommend starting this one as early as possible. On my way back up (around 10:30 am), there were crowds of people heading down to the waterfall… It’s a much nicer hike without crowds.

Food

Intz48 Coffee Roasters Azores

Flat whites and epic sandwiches: The owner of this cafe is Argentinian. He’s a cool character, very passionate about bitcoin and offered to make me a f**king terrific sandwich (Which it was!!) The chef making the sandwiches also makes excellent pastries. Stop by here before your hikes and pick up a delicious lunch. I had an egg sandwich with avocado, in a nice big bap. Spicy. And of course, a flat white to go, please. So good.

Azorean Poke

Nice poke. It’s not Hawaii style ( big and epic), but it’s good.

Taberna na Boavista

As previously mentioned, I ate here a few times for the great food and atmosphere.

PAlma sushi

If you’re a sushi lover… you’re gonna wanna stop here. It’s really good. Fresh fish, pleasant atmosphere. It’s pretty small; you might have to call ahead and book. Definitely worth waiting for a table.

A Tasca

Great seafood, and make sure you try the pineapple cake! It can get busy here, but swing by and leave your name on a list and take a stroll around the town.

Tasquinha Vieira

Great dining experience at a reasonable price. They get creative with local produce, and the food is really tasty.

NONNAS TEETH & TOMATOES PIZZA

Sometimes you just need a good pizza.

Beach club surf & sancks

Head here to watch the waves and enjoy a relaxed vibe with some nice views.

Honourable mentions

Cerâmica Vieira :

Beautiful handmade ceramics. You can see the ladies busy hand-painting items, and you can also pick up some from their store.

Ceramics factory

Inside the ceramics factory

Ceramics being hand painted

Cerâmica Vieira, the layout is pretty open, and you can just walk around

Jardim Botânico José do Canto

A nice place to walk around. Here is a map of the plants if you wanna get nerdy about it ( you should)

Flowers on my way to Jardim Botânico José do Canto, and an Epic tree when inside the garden

Queijadas do Morgado

Go for a drive and stop for a coffee and a dessert here. You can see the team in the back making the small local Azorean pastries, Queijadas. Fresh! I got 3 of them and an espresso and had a quiet moment by the docks ( I love these small, still moments)

Decathlon

I got a decent rain jacket here for 10 euros. I should have brought mine. But this was my first visit, and I wasn’t so familiar with the Azorean weather. It can rain on one side and be sunny on the other, changing in the space of 15 minutes. I loved this; it reminded me of Ireland.

Anyway, this place has everything you need for a great day out in nature.

Ouch! Laundromat

Funny name aside, if you’re staying for two weeks, you’re gonna need to do some laundry. Go here. Quick, Self-service and free wifi. What else do you need?

Abdond hotel (Hotel Monte Palace)

Such a shame to see such a big structure in an idyllic location in ruins. This building is quite significant. It’s boarded off, and if you manage to make it inside, be careful; it’s ancient, and there are lots of objects on the floor. I definitely would not wander in here with flip-flops. You can read about the history of this place here.

Felt like I was on the set of the TV show “The Last of Us”

So there you have it, an overview of my 2023 Azores trip. It left such a good impression, I wanted to get back to it as soon as I could… There were nine more islands to explore!! So I was fortunate enough to go back again in 2024. This time, to visit the other islands. Part two of the Azores adventure is coming soon.