The Island you probably never heard of — São Tomé

Jan 12

I’m not sure how I first heard about São Tomé and Príncipe—maybe during one of my Google Earth “let’s find small islands I can fly to” sessions, or while browsing a favorite sub reddit —but I booked flights in March 2025 with the plan to spend New Year’s there: part rest, part island exploration. I knew it would be rainy season, but I took the gamble (it worked out on Réunion around the same time in 2024).

São Tomé: at a glance

When: New Year period (rainy season).
Where: São Tomé (Príncipe next time).
Trip length: 12 days (New Year period, rainy season)
Language: Portuguese helps a lot. Very few people speak English, so we relied on Google Translate—but you don’t get the same connection through a screen (and my jokes definitely didn’t translate).
Getting around: A 4x4 is strongly recommended if you’re heading south.
Trip style: Beach time + rainforest drives + history/ruins.
Highlight: VANHA / Porto Alegre stay + the Rolas botanic garden tour.
Guidebook: Bradt São Tomé & Príncipe.

As usual, this blog is mostly me sharing photos, with a few notes on the places we visited.

Car rental

We rented a car from Privilege Tours,. They weren’t the cheapest option, but we got a nice, fairly new Suzuki Jimny (around 20,000 km on the clock), and the pickup/drop-off was straightforward (airport/hotel).

If you’re heading south, I’d strongly recommend a 4x4—and you should be comfortable changing a tire. The roughest stretch for us was the last ~20 km before VANHA / Porto Alegre: a mix of potholes, gravel, and loose rock. It’s totally doable in a 4x4, and you’ll even see the local yellow buses bouncing along at about 30 km/h.

Tips

Know your 4x4 settings: 4H is usually enough for rough roads; I never needed 4L. If you’re not sure when to use what, this video is a good video.
Navigation: We mostly used Google Maps, and sometimes double-checked with Maps.me.
Drive slower than you think: potholes can appear out of nowhere, especially after rain.
Don’t count on help instantly: carry a basic kit (spare tire, jack, and whatever you need to change it).

Where to stay

We split our stay across four places, starting in the north and gradually working our way south—then finishing back up north again to unwind before flying home.

Monte Mar (3 nights) – A good place to land and settle in. If you’re driving there for the first time after picking up the car at night, it’s easy to miss the turn-off. Keep an eye out as you get close—it leads onto a dirt track. Google Maps sometimes tries to keep you on the paved road, which can make you miss it.
Casa Praia (3 nights) – A treehouse on the beach. A perfect slow, barefoot kind of stay.
VANHA (4 Nights) – A plantation stay, and a highlight of the trip. If you’re lucky, you’ll meet Bastian, who’s been on the island for 20 years and is often around.
Omali São Tomé (2 nights) – Back up north for a couple of relaxed days before flying back.

Things to do

Note: These spots aren’t listed in any particular order. I’ve included a Google Maps link so you can save/bookmark them to your map (download it offline before you head out). Pick and choose what to do based on where you’re staying each night.

Snorkel at Lagoa Azul
Easy, classic stop—clear water on a calm day.
Swim at Praia Piscina
Watch for sea urchins. The “pool” furthest to the left had a few small fish when we visited.
Pico Cão Grande View
Quick roadside stop for the iconic shot—worth it even if you don’t linger.
Cascata de Praia Pesqueira (waterfall)
A solid waterfall stop and a good leg-stretch on a drive day. We drove into a nearby village and a few locals immediately knew where we meant—they walked us over, we snapped some photos, and left. Nobody asked for money, but we gave the oldest person who guided us a few dobras as a thank you.
Side Note: People in São Tomé are incredibly kind—don’t take advantage of it. If someone guides you somewhere, consider tipping what it felt worth. It supports locals directly and helps tourism grow in a good way.
Casa das Artes Criação Ambiente e Utopias
One of the coolest cultural stops on the island. The space used to be part of old plantation infrastructure(large train network) —today it’s a creative hub with a great vibe (and, as I learned later, an excellent Thursday night dinner experience).
São Sebastião Museum
A simple way to add some context/history to everything you’re seeing on the road.
Hospital de Água Izé + the old plantation
This was a highlight. We got lucky: a local approached us near the entrance, showed a laminated guide badge, and—rarely for São Tomé—spoke English. The tour was genuinely great, and we even tasted fresh beans picked on the spot.
Hellmouth viewpoint
Another worthwhile viewpoint stop—especially if you’re already in the area.
Day trip to Ilhéu das Rolas (Rolas Island)
You can organize the boat through VANHA / Porto Alegre. If you make it over, don’t skip the botanic garden guided tour—we found it surprisingly fascinating. The guide walked us through local plants and how they’re used (mosquito repellent, soap-like foam, etc.).
Boat trip to Praia São Miguel
This one didn’t happen for us—on the day we planned it, the waves were too big—but it’s worth keeping on your list if conditions cooperate.

Where to eat

Most of the time we ate where we were staying—breakfast was usually included, and dinners were often simple rice + fish: clean, fresh, and tasty. We especially loved breakfast at Bastian’s.

Moxinhos — Mercearia & Cafetaria
Great for an easy lunch, plus good coffee and smoothies. They also have Wi-Fi if you need it.
Pico Mocambo
Solid fish burger, but definitely on the pricier side.
Supermarket stop (before heading south)
Stock up on snacks and plenty of water—options thin out once you’re down south.
Diogo Vaz
Stop for an ice cream and pick up some local chocolate.
Casa das Artes — Criação Ambiente e Utopias (Thursday nights)
One of the best meals we had on the island. On Thursdays they do a buffet dinner with music, and the atmosphere is great.